Day One
Arrive in
Milan. We were obviously a little tired but nonetheless excited. After 12 hours, two planes, two security checks – we had to go through another endless shuffle and search in Frankfurt – we rolled off the plane in
Milan at about 11 a.m., found our luggage and the shuttle bus which cost us E6.50 each and took us to the Central Station downtown.
It took about 40 minutes on the bus which was packed with travelers and as we slipped into the city from the highway, the morning sun broke through, lifting our spirits.
It was a Saturday morning and the city was in full weekend mode. People were walking, riding bicycles, talking, smoking and hanging out at cafes and storefronts.
Around us cars, scooters, motorcycles, cyclists and pedestrians zipped in and out of the traffic. None of the roads are straight – as you’d expect for a city laid out in the 12th Century - and one circular path led us to the next.
And then, in a moment, we arrived at the Stazzione Central , a magnificently massive building of white stone, imperiously presiding over a large piazza with characters and horses carved into its façade.
We hailed a cab to take us to the Hotel Mythos which looked to be nearby judging from the map we downloaded when we booked it on online. Turns out it was only a block and half but with the luggage and crude directions we were better off paying the E5 fare.
We checked into a lovely room, fairly recently renovated with a high ceiling and small stone balcony which overlooked Via Carlo Tenca. It wasn’t large by North American standards, about 15 by 15 with a king sized bed, but it was perfect for us as we quickly showered and freshened up ready to take on
Milan.
We walked around a little then settled on a little corner restaurant where Tina had some Pasta Arrabiatta and I wolfed down some Pasta Al Fourno – backed pasta with cheese and ham. Both were delicious, served with hot little rolls which steamed when you cracked open their biscuit like crusts and washed down with red wine and beer.
Noticing many of the stores were closed because it was the mid day break which usually stretches to 3 p.m. Tina graciously consented to going back to the hotel room so I could catch the second half of the Arsenal-Manchester United game on the TV (in Italian). The game ended in a 2-2 tie after Ronaldo put ManU in front and the Gooners equalized in the last minute after a goal mouth scramble.
After that we fell asleep for an hour! We were quite tired and the little bit of exploring had taken whatever energy we had. The hour long cat nap was worth it and we set off around 3:30 p.m. or so to the Duomo – the marvelous church which took 500 years to complete in the heart of the historic district.

We opted to get a two pass Metro ticket which cost us E5.50 and allowed us to jump on and off the subway system whenever we liked. Our hotel was three minutes away from the station and within eight minutes we were walking up the stairs to the Piazza Duomo where the spectacular building was light up in the afternoon sun in full glory.
Now, I’ve been to many great cathedrals and temples in my travels and they are all unique. Whether it’s Notre Dame, Westminster Cathedral or the
Royal
Palace and
Temple in
Bangkok, they are truly inspirational. And for me, a dogmatic atheist to say that, well, you know they must be special.
The Duomo was first started sometime around 1300 – I’ll look up the fact later and insert them here – and through successive sponsors, architects, builders, building styles and purposes, it took five centuries to complete. And they’re still working on it - now to restore and repair the damage done by time and traffic pollution. Sounds like a lot of public works projects even today!
The impact of the building though is amazing. There are 135 odd spires and towers rising up from the main building, all constructed from marble and stone. A top the highest spire is a copper statue of Mary which has been gold plated. As the sun hits it and lights it up it seems to radiate light – which I suppose is exactly what its designers intended.
The Duomo mixes several styles since it was built over such a long period. There’s the gothic, renaissance and bits of this and that. The overall effect though is wonderful and the carved stone details look like lace.
After a bit of a walk about we hit the Ferrari store which is just what it sounds like, a store where you can buy all things Ferrari – except for the car, though they had a couple of F1 cars on display. You could even have your picture taken in an F1 if you bought two items.
Aside from the usual hats, caps, shirts, mugs, Teddy Bears, model cars and other bits and pieces, you could also buy the odd chunk of a Ferrari. An exhaust manifold, for example, was a mere E6,000 – that’s nearly $9,000. A piece of front wing was only E799. Andrew wanted us to bring him back a Ferrari steering wheel but after looking at those prices we didn’t even bother to ask.
From there we decided to head over to the San Siro Stadium because AC Milan were hosting Torino that night and there was a good chance we could get tickets. It was about 5:30 p.m. when we got there and already the crowds had started to gather. Large European football games are like a carnival atmosphere and the supports – the Russo Brigade – were in full chant. We found the ticket booth and then got hit on by a guy who was either scalping or looking to dump some tickets he’d obviously acquired for free. I checked them out and they looked genuine so I agreed to pay E50 each – about E75. They were in the second tier of the stadium which holds about 80,000 or more people and seemed to have good enough sightlines. There was one catch – these tickets were issued to a specific person whose name was on them so we had to go around the front to another booth and have the name changed. Feeling like I’d just parted too easily with E100 we walked around to the front, checking out the Pannini wagons and merchandise stalls where all the scarves, hats, shirts and other paraphernalia were set out.
It turns out it was a simple thing to change the names. I lucked into a booth which wasn’ busy and the lady took out ID and issued some paperwork. Italians seem to love paperwork. It was close to 6 p.m. and kick off was 8:30 p.m. but instead of heading back to the hotel – which was only about 15 minutes by Metro - we opted to hang out and have dinner alfresco.
The pannini wagon were our first stop. Think of a mini bus, sort of bigger than a mini van but smaller than a city bus. One entire side is a door which lifts up to make a canopy while a bank of glass fronted deli cases cantilever outward to create a counter. On the back wall you have fridges and coffee machines. The cases themselves are piled high with bread, cold cuts and cheeses which up top there’s often a griddle with onions and peppers sizzling away. Some even had a roasted pig from which they would slice fresh cuts to stuff into a sandwich. Each one had its own special style of offering which sort of explains why there were so many in some many different varieties. If
Toronto every changes its policy on street meat – and it is under review – I’m going to import one of these puppies and park it outside Raptor, TFC, Rock, Leaf and Jays games. I’ll make a killing because the food is sooooooo good.
Pannini is simply fresh bread stuffed with goodies then put under a hot sandwich press but it’s the freshness and quality of the ingredients which make it come to life.
I had a ham and cheese while Tina went for a tomato and cheese. With a couple o cold Beck’s beers it came to E16 – sounds like a lot but it was really E4 for each item – about $6 – and cheaper than it would have cost back in
Toronto for dinner at the stadium – any stadium.
After dinner we walked around the massive San Siro which rises 100 feet or more and dwarfs the Air Canada Centre by comparison and found a pub where we knocked back more drinks before heading into the stadium around 7:30 p.m. There were a bunch of young guys there from
Liverpool who had flown in for the weekend on one of those cheap Ryan Air flight
- mostly for a laugh but also to watch AC Milan. It just shows you how relatively small and geographically accessible
Europe is.
The atmosphere in the stadium is just what I expected from watching Series A on TV. It was electric. To our left were all the Rosso Brigade, singing, chanting and whistling. To the right, way way up at the third tier were the
Torino fans who had come in for the game. They had to wait until there was a lull in the
Milan end before starting up but as soon as they did all the Rosso Brigade started whistling and jeering to down them out. It was almost as entertaining as the game. Well, may be more entertaining since it ended in a 0-0 draw with
Milan missing several gold plated chances and then making things worse by repeatedly giving up the ball in the midfield.
Torino played well enough and had a couple of chances but they didn’t dominate and they seemed happy enough to get a point.
However the highlight of the night had to be Tina’s trip to the washroom at the stadium. Apparently Italians generally don’t seem to put much stock in public toilets, thus the women’s loo was a hole in the floor. Yes, there was a cubicle, but instead of a porcelain bowl there a porcelain thing which was more like a sink set into the floor over which you’re – or rather they – are supposed to squat and pee while simultaneously maintaining balance. Oh, and there was no toilet paper so apparently you - or again they – have to wiggle their hips afterward while still keeping upright to, you know, shake off the drops.
As you can imagine, and I supposed you’ll have to since you weren’t there, the Princess was mortified. But more on that later, bathrooms are a recurring theme.
We dragged ourselves home and collapsed into bed exhausted!