Archive for November, 2007

Put your money where your mouth is PK!

Thursday, November 29th, 2007

The news that Industry Canada will set aside spectrum in the upcoming Advanced Wireless Spectrum auction next year to allow new competitors entry into the wireless market is timely and welcome.

Kudos to Quebecor’s Pierre Karl Peladeau and MTS Allstream for their efforts to win the set aside which will prevent the big three, Bell, Telus and Rogers, fromreaching deep and blocking out any upstarts - which would have resulted in the business as usual collusion of the wireless cartel.

As consumers of wireless services who have been made to pay dearly for the privilege of using our cell phones, we’re about to get a break - at least we should.

PK and his alliance said we needed competition because most Canadians can’t afford to use iconic Canadian inventions like the BlackBerry.

And he’s right. Let’s hope he puts his money where his mouth is when this finally plays out and everyone get their spectrum. We’re about to enter a new age of wireless communication in Canada one in which we won’t be gouged for data rates or voice plans or even the services we’d like to access with our mobiles.

Of course, I think PK ha another agenda and that’s to use a mobile spectrum licence to expand his media empire by offering low cost content from his newspapers, magazines and TV channels over wireless.

Consumers get low cost or even free content with ads, Quebecor Media gets to expand it’s audience and deliver a better spectrum and of deomgraphics and larger audience to advertisers.

But then, I’m a cynic.

For more on this and how it will impact Smart Phone sales in North America, see my story in TQ magazine.

Reinventing the cheese wheel

Wednesday, November 28th, 2007

Tina loves the PaniniYou know, when it comes to reinventing the wheel, you gotta hand it to Toronto Mayor David Miller.

After whacking the suburbs with a $60 per vehicle surtax and slapping a land transfer tax on sales to make up for his inablity to rein in spending, he’s now looking to spend $700,000 on reinventing the street meat cart.

He wants Torontonians to be able to eat a more diverse diet of ethnic and healthy foods and those ubiquitous hot dog carts and chip trucks just don’t cut it.

Instead, he wants to fund research and design into something that would work.

Want Peppers with that Bambino?Dear David. Get a grip! We just got back from Italy where we sampled street food all over the place in the form of Panini wagons. They like mini buses whose sides open up and have a cold case which slides out. The driver’s seat area is usually occupied by a coffee machine. They serve hot and cold sandwiches as only the Italians can - with style!

Pig to GoThe bread is fresh as are the ingredients and there’s lots to choose from: Ham, chicken, cheese,tomatoes, grilled peppers and other grilled entrees. It’s delicious and reasonably priced. A beer and a pannini cost me $6 Euros. A couple of them had whole pigs on them, cooked and ready for carving.

But then I forgot, we can’t be trusted to drink beer on the streets  of Toronto and God knowns the Italian panini wagons probably won’t meet the Toronto health standards.

Baloney!

Panini Wagon folks waiting for the crowds at San SiroWhy reinvent the wheel? Just import a couple of those wagons, lease them to a a couple of willing entrepreneurs and see what happens. I’ll betcha itll cost lot less than $700,000.

Mangiacake!

Squishing BlackBerries

Tuesday, November 27th, 2007

In this issue of TQ (Tech Quarterly) magazine published in the Globe and Mail I have a feature story on the challengers RIM’s BlackBerry faces as more handheld devices arrive in the market with identical features - though there are differences in the back end obviously.

The point of the story is not to knock BlackBerry - heck, they invented the segment - but to point out that when you’ve got a good thing, everyone wants in.

But there’s also a recurring theme here and that’s Smart Phones will not take off until we get some real flexibility in data pricing. Nor will the Mobile Web. Aside from challenges of screen size and punching in web addresses, the cost of downloading a page only to find you need the next page and perhaps the page after that starts to add up when you’re paying by the Kb.

That said, I’ve been running a little experiment for the past month or so and when I get my next Rogers bill I’ll see how it went. Since, I’m only out of the office a two or three days a month it’s not worth it to me to sign up for a large dataplan at $60 a month on top of the nearly $100 a month my phone costs me now.

While digging through the Roger’s web site I stumbled across an offer for 5 mb of data a month at $5. So I signed up since you can cancel at any time. It sounds like nothing (the data) and it is. But what I’ve also done is only configured one email account, my main working account, and I’ve limited each email to 2 Kb. That way when I get 20 emails and 18 of them are SPAM I’ve used a mere 40 Kb out of the 5 Mb. I get close to 100 or more emails a day on that account….close to 300 on all my accounts but the majority are SPAM and go straight to delete. And I’m rarely out of the office all day unless I’m on the road and even then I usually have WiFi or Web access in my hotel room through my laptop. Over the three or even four days a month I need to check my email while mobile - clients often have last minute editing questions and usually use email as a communication channel - usually it’s only for a few hours at a stretch in the middle of the day. I figure I will probably use 500 kb of data or less - even if I reply to a couple emails and opt to download full messages if they are larger than the filter of 2 kb. Obviously, I won’t be downloading those funny/strange 2 Mb video clips my friends send me until I get home.

That will  even leave a few kbs left over to let me surf a couple of WAP pages I’ve configured into my handheld (iPAQ6955)so I can check soccer scores on the fly.

Yes, there had to be a soccer angle in there somewhere didn’t there? 

We’ll see how it works out, but as long as there are no surprises - and I’m steeled against the “hidden” costs - it sounds like a half-way solution for someone like me.

But that doesn’t change the bottom line. Data prices are still too high!

This frosts my flakes: Proof of the Wireless Cartel

Wednesday, November 21st, 2007

I’ve always felt that Canada’s Big Three telecoms are in collusion. Can’t quite prove it but like the gas companies, there’s something smelly here.

So here’s a tidbit from this morning’s Globe and Mail: Robert McFarlane of Telus warns Rogers it is getting too greedy. Only take your “fair share” of new wireless subscribers or face the consequences, he says in effect.

Rogers apparently is signing up 46% of new customers while Telus is getting only 36% according to Telcom Reporter Catherine McLean on B15 of the ROB this morning.

“Should those trends continue,” she reports. “Mr. McFarlane warned ‘you’re going to have quite a price war out there. ‘ But if Rogers is “prepared to have a fair share in the industry, then there will be more rational pricing.”

I’m sorry but this sounds like collusion to me. We already have the wireless market conveniently divided by thirds and organized in a very comfy boys club arrangement. Prices have not shifted for years - except upwards.

For Telus to say publicly, toe the line on market share or we’ll rock the boat, sounds like a cartel washing it’s linen in public.

And this is exactly why we need ATS Allstream and Videotron and anyone else as new carriers in the Canadian market. If the Minister of Industry hasn’t been swayed thus far in deciding to create a special category to allow new entrants into the wireless spectrum auction these comments should be the tipping point.

The government is about to set the rules for the auction of Advance Wireless Spectrum - the next gen of networking which will again change the way Canadians work rest and play - but the fear is the big three will simply use their deep pockets (lined with the proceeds of their afore mentioned arrangement) to block out any upstart and then, as they did last time, simply divvy up the pie between them and sit back and do…..nothing.

Why invest in infrastructure or get aggressive about winning customers when there is no real competition, only an “arrangement?”

The Italian Job - The espresso kicks in

Sunday, November 18th, 2007

Days 3 to 14: No time to write. Too busy. We’re in constant motion. Maybe it’s the espressos.

 

It’s warm enough for shirtsleeves but all the Italians are bundled up in coats and scarves, the latter worn in a tie just so. Only the crazy Canucks are walking around in T-shirts. After the initial nervousness about being a stranger in a strange land, a couple of glasses of wine, some espresso and a couple of grazias! we’re lulled into the false sense of belonging.

And who doesn’t identify with Italy. Root of the Roman Empire, a land of rich farmland which has probably never seen a famine. Food is plentiful here and the culture embraces it with gusto. Eating isn’t something you have to do, it’s something you immerse yourself in. Shops and businesses begin to shut down at noon, not to reopen until 2 p.m. sometimes 3 p.m. or later. Even the cafes close. The restaurants, though pop open, only to close themselves after the lunch trade and open again that night at 8 p.m. for the supper business. Sunday everything closes, including many restaurants.In Italy, it seems, life is lived at a commonly agreed pace. Not too fast, not too slow. Just right.

Unless of course you are driving. I’m doing a buck-thirty on the A1 and suddenly this Mercedes is right up my tail. Italians may not be an overtly homosexual culture but they love to come up your arse on the highway. He blows by me at a 150 Kmh. The speed limit is posted 110 kmh but we think it’s just a suggestion.
The cities are all different but somehow the same. There’s always a 13th Century church somewhere in every village, town or big city. “Look, there’s a Timmies,” Tina says, pointing to an ancient structure, as in Tim Hortons. Like Timmys there’s one on every corner.
And that, of course, gives Italy its sense of permanance. Things have been here forever and they will likely remain like this forever, give or take. Why hurry? The piazzas are also everywhere, with outdoor seating for the cafes and restaurants, an invitation to unhurried dining. And the food just keeps coming. You have to eat. It’s expected. All courses. You can’t just have one. It’s not done. What are you? Americans? Antipasti, primi, secondi, dessert and then coffee. Espresso for me. Just a shot of dark liquid, almost black with a caramel brown foam, the crema, on top. One sugar, a methodical stir and straight back in two sips. One to test the temperature, the second to drain it. Then the rush of caffeine. Forget heroin or cocaine. I’m hooked on espressos and start to crave them every couple of hours, even before bed.

The cities on the itinerary fall away. Milan, the twin cathedrals of Italian culture, the Duomo and the San Siro, Mantoua, typical of the small cities dotting the country, still cloaked in their medieval splendour, Modena, a vibrant ancient city and heart of not just balsamic vinegar but home to the valley of cars: Ferrari in nearby, Marenello, Stanguellini, Maserati, Lamborghini, De Tomaso and Bugati. All those great marques also came from this fertile valley. Spilabmberto, and lesson in balsamic vinegar and its traditions stretching back to the 15th century. Even the little B&B we were staying at makes its own according to family tradition with 80 year-old barrels handed down by grandfather to granddaughter. The 25-year-old vinegar is sweet and dark and at $100 a 100 cl bottle outrageously priced. We bought two. Plus a 12 year-old and a litre of seven year old for salads. What price indulgence?

Parma and a pannini lunch followed by another couple of hours of gazing at churches and piazzas.There are museums and museums. Some full of renaissance paintings and artifacts, others full of cars and machinery, like the Ducati museum, Museo di Stanguellini or the Galleria Ferrari. We watch in awe as we tour the Ducati factory in Bolognese as the $65,000 machines are assembled in front of us, watching as each part is machined and bolted together by hand. Going to Ferrari is like going to Mecca.

Dinner and lunches at restaurants ranges from 35 euros to nearly 400 at the Acquilla Nigra, the Black Eagle. Food? Amazing. Veal cheeks, pheasant and truffles, bass, scampi. Pasta the way it should be. But, strangely, after a few days we’re missing the exotic. It’s 99% Italian food. There’s a sushi here, a Chinese there, an Indonesian, maybe a Mexican.

We try the El Paso one night in

Lucca for a change only to find while there are pictures of cowboys and native Americans on the walls, the menu is the same old, same old. We order a hamburger. Two patties, no bun. Even the gnocchi is overpowered with gorgonzola. The worst meal of the trip.Otherwise, though, Lucca, the walled city with its tiny streets and ancient buildings, is a treat. We stay at a winery, cook our own dinner and sit around the table like Italians at home. We’ve had primi, secondi and many, many glasses of wine. I bond with Meaghan who has matured overnight into a confident young woman with an acute sense of direction. She tells me stories she’s never told before. I cry. She cries. We take the train to Firenze - Florence on your map - and gaze in awe again at an old church. We climb 434 steps to the top of ancient bell tower to see the city. Colder now. We buy matching ITALIA sweatshirt jckets and laugh at being tourists. We giggle in disgust at an old man who strips naked outside the central trains station, drunk, stumbling to clean up after he’s messed himself.

We shop for olive oil in Lucca to learn the Tuscan olive crop has failed because of a fly infestation. That’s really bad news. I think about buying olive futures when I get back. Do they exist?

Megs heads back to Goito and we hit Pisa. Not much really though the tower is pretty much what we expected. There are of course, a church and another building beside it which don’t get the attention but then, what’s another Timmys? Pictures, fight off the street vendors, all dark African men with armfuls of Gucci and Prada knock offs or Rolex or Pateks. Just like

Shanghai. “Watch? Bag?” We head for the last turn,

Genoa driving through tunnels and up and down the mountains. Churches, towns, castles, homes perched on the sides of mountains, precariously built into the rocks, their stuccos of golden yellow and orange lighting up like neon in the sun.Then Genoa, the ancient port. We’re staying in the old city but we get lost, ending up flustered and apparently on the way to the airport, locked into the autostrada toll road with no exit in sight. We’re so discombobulated we lose the ticket and the booth guy wants to charge us 60 euros. We find the ticket as traffic backs up behind us. Tensions rise, tempers flare and that’s just between us. We turn back and an hour and half after we first arrive, the landlady at the B&B talks us in. Vespas and motorcycles cut in and out around us, coming at us like attack dogs from all sides. Drivers care less about a couple of lost mangiacakes who take too long to decide which way to turn or are in the wrong lane on the roundabouts. Horns blow. Brakes light flare.And then it’s our last day. Enough time to wander

Genoa’s maze of alleys and window shop and have lunch just up the street from Christopher Columbus’ childhood home. Then it’s the autostrada to Milano’s Malpensa airport. Check in. Drop off the car. Take the shuttle back. Pack. Dinner at the hotel restaurant. No expectations but the Breseola is the best so far. The ravioli and truffles are outstanding as is the duck. The wine is crap but it’s our fault – opting for the house offering.Antoher shot of espresso and then bed. 5:30 a.m. ride to the airport. Fourteen days, 11 cities, two hotels, three bed and breakfasts, 2,000 odd klicks.Time for one more shot of espresso. Sweet, dark. The jolt. One last jolt. And then it’s gone. A memory now. A mosaic of memories in these words and pictures which somehow changes us. We’re not the same as we were. We’re different now. Is the land, the culture, the 24-hours together? The time together? Or just the espresso? Ciao!

The Italian Job Day 2

Sunday, November 11th, 2007

We slept right through to shake off the jet lag then hit the streets. Sadly it was Sunday which meant pretty well everything was closed but we headed to the Duomo again and made a point of going inside to check it out, something we didn’t do on Saturday because there seemed to be a line up. This time we got right in and there were church services going on.

It has these magnificent bronze doors with sculpted figures all telling one story or another from Christianity and inside the vaulted ceiling seem to soar up 100 feet. What’s more interesting is that it is still an everyday church for the people of

Milan who were worshipping as a choir sang in Latin.

The effect is ethereal as you’d expect. Aside from the grandeur and gravitas of the architecture the ambience combines to give it an awesome solemnity. Along the sides people were lighting candles and offering personal prayers to the shrines while on the walls stone sculptures and the sarcophagi of long dead bishops, leaders and sundry stared down at us. As I said, I’m not big on churches but when you realize that people have been worshipping and praying here for 600 odd years it really is impressive and sends a little tingle your spine.

However, despite all that I’m not about to rush and study the catechism at the seminary and join the priest hood, though my mum, was a Catholic for a while at least.

From there we walked around the area which despite being very touristy had some very interesting features. We stopped in for lunch at a little restaurant and ordered tagliatelle a fungi and a margharita pizza with wine which was very good. Funny thing about the Italians, they do Italian food very well. Okay, that wasn’t so funny, but what is funny is that there’s a dearth of other foods here. As we would discover, Italians pretty well go for Italian food and while there were a few sushi restaurants in Milan, McDonalds’ and Kebab places, there wasn’t much else in the way of “foreign food” but more on that a little later.

From there we headed off to the Sfrozella Castillo (CheckSp) which dates way back to before the 13th century though most of what survives was built from about the mid 1400s. It was only a couple of subway away and again a very impressive structure which it’s main tower, massive brick walls and battlements, complete with those one foot by one foot slots for shooting arrows at the enemy. And over the years there were quite a few battles between the Hapsburgs and Napolean and the odd despot who invaded northern

Italy.

For a mere E3 each we gained admission to the castle which is a giant museum and we wandered through the salons which were chock-full of art and artifacts. Again it’s not something we would do back in Toronto probably but then you don’t get this kind of history in

Toronto do you?

The paintings were great though they were a bit heavy on the blood and guts with lots of depictions of people being executed in horrible ways, like Sebastien who was dispatched by being tied to a tree and shot with arrows, becoming a martyr in the process. So, that’s St. Sebbo to you. I know this because there were at least five or six versions of the same scene all done by different artists over the years. Other multiple renderings including a guy getting his head slip open with a machete which writing “credo” in his own blood which my rudimentary knowledge of romantic languages translates as “I believe” while others were gored to death, stoned or had their throats slit.

Still, the art work was inspirational especially one 16th century depiction of Christ in which the effect of renaissance technology was clearly apparent. The face of Jesus jumped out from this black background into this amazing splash of light. The eyes were incredibly detailed and the artist – I should have written his name down, shouldn’t I? – also managed to capture the finest fly away strands of hair as highlights. They really were so real you almost wanted to touch them, which of course you wouldn’t do because that would have shaken the security guards from their armchairs along the sides of the gallery and made them put down their iPods and rush over to arrest you.

All this in a painting which was really only about two by two feet and placed at a height which if you squinted made you think you were standing face to face with the Son of God.

The rest of it was also an eclectic collection of stuff from the 1500s through 1800s, including armour, armaments, ceramics, brassware and, to me, the fascinating collection of musical instruments. From cellos to guitars, to lutes, to harpsichords and pianos

I found it all fascinating, including to no one’s surprise I’m sure, the guitars. Some were really strange with wildly carved sound holes that went all the way down to the base of the box while others had this outrigger style of bass strings which gave you two guitars in one. I suppose the technique would be to pick the bass strings with your thumb, as we do now playing classical or Spanish style, but instead of having just the EAD there are also the BGD on the outrigger structure giving you a total of nine, sometimes 10 strings.

To cap off a long day of walking we went out for dinner only to find the city was shut down. Funny thing about Italians. They don’t like to work Sundays. We did find a restaurant in the basement of a nearby hotel where we noshed quite well. I had the Breseola – thin sliced beef with chaved cheese and oil oile and Tina had the fungi and pasta…with a caprese salad to start. We nailed that with an orange which had been peeled whole and then drizzled in candied rind and syrup and a few grappas……wow.

The Italian Job: The Adventure Begins

Thursday, November 8th, 2007

Day One

Arrive in

Milan. We were obviously a little tired but nonetheless excited. After 12 hours, two planes, two security checks – we had to go through another endless shuffle and search in Frankfurt – we rolled off the plane in

Milan at about 11 a.m., found our luggage and the shuttle bus which cost us E6.50 each and took us to the Central Station downtown.

 

 

It took about 40 minutes on the bus which was packed with travelers and as we slipped into the city from the highway, the morning sun broke through, lifting our spirits.

It was a Saturday morning and the city was in full weekend mode. People were walking, riding bicycles, talking, smoking and hanging out at cafes and storefronts.

Around us cars, scooters, motorcycles, cyclists and pedestrians zipped in and out of the traffic. None of the roads are straight – as you’d expect for a city laid out in the 12th Century - and one circular path led us to the next.

And then, in a moment, we arrived at the Stazzione Central , a magnificently massive building of white stone, imperiously presiding over a large piazza with characters and horses carved into its façade.

We hailed a cab to take us to the Hotel Mythos which looked to be nearby judging from the map we downloaded when we booked it on online. Turns out it was only a block and half but with the luggage and crude directions we were better off paying the E5 fare.

We checked into a lovely room, fairly recently renovated with a high ceiling and small stone balcony which overlooked Via Carlo Tenca. It wasn’t large by North American standards, about 15 by 15 with a king sized bed, but it was perfect for us as we quickly showered and freshened up ready to take on

Milan.

We walked around a little then settled on a little corner restaurant where Tina had some Pasta Arrabiatta and I wolfed down some Pasta Al Fourno – backed pasta with cheese and ham. Both were delicious, served with hot little rolls which steamed when you cracked open their biscuit like crusts and washed down with red wine and beer.

Noticing many of the stores were closed because it was the mid day break which usually stretches to 3 p.m. Tina graciously consented to going back to the hotel room so I could catch the second half of the Arsenal-Manchester United game on the TV (in Italian). The game ended in a 2-2 tie after Ronaldo put ManU in front and the Gooners equalized in the last minute after a goal mouth scramble.

After that we fell asleep for an hour! We were quite tired and the little bit of exploring had taken whatever energy we had. The hour long cat nap was worth it and we set off around 3:30 p.m. or so to the Duomo – the marvelous church which took 500 years to complete in the heart of the historic district.

We opted to get a two pass Metro ticket which cost us E5.50 and allowed us to jump on and off the subway system whenever we liked. Our hotel was three minutes away from the station and within eight minutes we were walking up the stairs to the Piazza Duomo where the spectacular building was light up in the afternoon sun in full glory.

Now, I’ve been to many great cathedrals and temples in my travels and they are all unique. Whether it’s Notre Dame, Westminster Cathedral or the

Royal

Palace and Temple in

Bangkok, they are truly inspirational. And for me, a dogmatic atheist to say that, well, you know they must be special.

The Duomo was first started sometime around 1300 – I’ll look up the fact later and insert them here – and through successive sponsors, architects, builders, building styles and purposes, it took five centuries to complete. And they’re still working on it  - now to restore and repair the damage done by time and traffic pollution. Sounds like a lot of public works projects even today!

The impact of the building though is amazing. There are 135 odd spires and towers rising up from the main building, all constructed from marble and stone. A top the highest spire is a copper statue of Mary which has been gold plated. As the sun hits it and lights it up it seems to radiate light – which I suppose is exactly what its designers intended.

The Duomo mixes several styles since it was built over such a long period. There’s the gothic, renaissance and bits of this and that. The overall effect though is wonderful and the carved stone details look like lace.

After a bit of a walk about we hit the Ferrari store which is just what it sounds like, a store where you can buy all things Ferrari – except for the car, though they had a couple of F1 cars on display. You could even have your picture taken in an F1 if you bought two items.

Aside from the usual hats, caps, shirts, mugs, Teddy Bears, model cars and other bits and pieces, you could also buy the odd chunk of a Ferrari. An exhaust manifold, for example, was a mere E6,000 – that’s nearly $9,000. A piece of front wing was only E799. Andrew wanted us to bring him back a Ferrari steering wheel but after looking at those prices we didn’t even bother to ask.

From there we decided to head over to the San Siro Stadium because AC Milan were hosting Torino that night and there was a good chance we could get tickets. It was about 5:30 p.m. when we got there and already the crowds had started to gather. Large European football games are like a carnival atmosphere and the supports – the Russo Brigade – were in full chant. We found the ticket booth and then got hit on by a guy who was either scalping or looking to dump some tickets he’d obviously acquired for free. I checked them out and they looked genuine so I agreed to pay E50 each – about E75. They were in the second tier of the stadium which holds about 80,000 or more people and seemed to have good enough sightlines. There was one catch – these tickets were issued to a specific person whose name was on them so we had to go around the front to another booth and have the name changed. Feeling like I’d just parted too easily with E100 we walked around to the front, checking out the Pannini wagons and merchandise stalls where all the scarves, hats, shirts and other paraphernalia were set out.

It turns out it was a simple thing to change the names. I lucked into a booth which wasn’ busy and the lady took out ID and issued some paperwork. Italians seem to love paperwork. It was close to 6 p.m. and kick off was 8:30 p.m. but instead of heading back to the hotel – which was only about 15 minutes by Metro -  we opted to hang out and have dinner alfresco.

The pannini wagon were our first stop. Think of a mini bus, sort of bigger than a mini van but smaller than a city bus. One entire side is a door which lifts up to make a canopy while a bank of glass fronted deli cases cantilever outward to create a counter. On the back wall you have fridges and coffee machines. The cases themselves are piled high with bread, cold cuts and cheeses which up top there’s often a griddle with onions and peppers sizzling away. Some even had a roasted pig from which they would slice fresh cuts to stuff into a sandwich. Each one had its own special style of offering which sort of explains why there were so many in some many different varieties. If

Toronto every changes its policy on street meat – and it is under review – I’m going to import one of these puppies and park it outside Raptor, TFC, Rock, Leaf and Jays games. I’ll make a killing because the food is sooooooo good.

Pannini is simply fresh bread stuffed with goodies then put under a hot sandwich press but it’s the freshness and quality of the ingredients which make it come to life.

I had a ham and cheese while Tina went for a tomato and cheese. With  a couple o cold Beck’s beers it came to E16 – sounds like a lot but it was really E4 for each item – about $6 – and cheaper than it would have cost back in

Toronto for dinner at the stadium – any stadium.

After dinner we walked around the massive San Siro which rises 100 feet or more and dwarfs the Air Canada Centre by comparison and found a pub where we knocked back more drinks before heading into the stadium around 7:30 p.m. There were a bunch of young guys there from

Liverpool who had flown in for the weekend on one of those cheap Ryan Air flight  - mostly for a laugh but also to watch AC Milan. It just shows you how relatively small and geographically accessible

Europe is.

The atmosphere in the stadium is just what I expected from watching Series A on TV. It was electric. To our left were all the Rosso Brigade, singing, chanting and whistling. To the right, way way up at the third tier were the

Torino fans who had come in for the game. They had to wait until there was a lull in the

Milan end before starting up but as soon as they did all the Rosso Brigade started whistling and jeering to down them out. It was almost as entertaining as the game. Well, may be more entertaining since it ended in a 0-0 draw with

Milan missing several gold plated chances and then making things worse by repeatedly giving up the ball in the midfield.

Torino played well enough and had a couple of chances but they didn’t dominate and they seemed happy enough to get a point.

However the highlight of the night had to be Tina’s trip to the washroom at the stadium. Apparently Italians generally don’t seem to put much stock in public toilets, thus the women’s loo was a hole in the floor. Yes, there was a cubicle, but instead of a porcelain bowl there a porcelain thing which was more like a sink set into the floor over which you’re – or rather they – are supposed to squat and pee while simultaneously maintaining balance. Oh, and there was no toilet paper so apparently you  - or again they – have to wiggle their hips afterward while still keeping upright to, you know, shake off the drops.

As you can imagine, and I supposed you’ll have to since you weren’t there, the Princess was mortified. But more on that later, bathrooms are a recurring theme.

We dragged ourselves home and collapsed into bed exhausted!